понедельник, 12 марта 2018 г.

Handmade Wooden 8 Column 120 Bottle Display Row Wine Cellar Kit in Ponderosa Pine. 13 Stain Combinations to Choose From!

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Unstained lead time is 2-3 days, whereas stained lead time is 1-2 weeks. These are wine cellar kits that require some assembly. Please see the assembly guide featured on the last two images.

Make 8 of your best vintages a focal point in your wine cellar. This display rack can store up to 11 wine cases. Features our industry exclusive solid display trays with high-reveal. Our wine cellar kits are designed to emphasize durability and elegance. You'll be satisfied. We guarantee it.

Width: 34 7/8"
Height: 77 1/8"
Depth: 10 1/2"
Bottle Slot: 3 1/2"
Columns: 8
Rows: 15
Bottle Capacity: Up to 120 bottles
Weight: about 60 lbs

What's included in my shipment?

Hardware and assembly instructions
[9] Full length ladder assemblies
[8] Solid wood display trays
[9] Horizontal spacer bars

Product Features

Make 8 of your best vintages a focal point in your wine cellar. This display rack can store up to 11 wine cases. Features our industry exclusive solid display trays with high-reveal. Our wine cellar kits are designed to emphasize durability and elegance. You'll be satisfied. We guarantee it.
Every Wine Racks America product is proudly made in America by dedicated wood-working professionals. Using only the finest quality Ponderosa Pine and Premium Redwood each product is hand crafted to highest standards of wine cellar industry.
Furniture quality Pine or hearty Redwood
Width 34 3/16" Height 77 1/8" Depth 10 1/2"
120 wine bottles with 8 on display (750ml)
Bottles load easily and securely
Unique solid wood display trays keep corks wet
Modular design affords expansion to any direction
Money Back Guarantee + Lifetime Warranty

What size wine bottles will fit?

Split (375ml): 2 3/8" ✓
Bordeaux (750ml): 2 7/8" ✓
Boutique (750ml): 3 1/8" ✓
Small Champagne (750ml): 3 1/4" ✓
Burgundy (750ml): 3 1/4" ✓
Large Pinot (750ml): 3 3/8" ✓

What size wine bottles won't fit?

Turley (750ml): 3 9/16" X
Big Champagne (750ml): 3 7/8" X
Magnum Bottles (1.5L): 4" X

Warranty Information

Wine Racks America, Inc. warranties all wooden wine racks for the product's life. This service protects against any defects in materials or workmanship performed by Wine Racks America. Should a defect arise, contact us immediately. “Defect” refers to, but is not limited to, occurrences of warping and bowing of the wood, splitting, or cracking. Manufacturer will replace the defective part or send a replacement at its discretion.
Customer is responsible for notifying the Manufacturer of defects believed to be covered by this Warranty within 10 days of receiving the product. Manufacturer reserves the right to inspect any item for product failure and may request photographs of or the return of the product. This Warranty is limited to the cost of repair or replacement of the defective item.
Wine Racks America LED products are guaranteed for six months from the date of purchase. Customers may request an exchange or a refund of defective products within that period. Conditions of exchange or return will be the same as stated above.
This Warranty does not cover products that have been modified or altered by the customer. This Warranty does not apply to products that are improperly assembled, handled, or installed. Damage to products caused by Acts of God is excluded from this Warranty. Conditions not covered herein are settled solely by the discretion of Wine Racks America, Inc.

Original article and pictures take https://www.etsy.com/listing/224165814/handmade-wooden-8-column-120-bottle site

суббота, 10 марта 2018 г.

Zyliss® Control 6-Piece Knife Block Set

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Vaulted cellars in Worcester
The brick-built vaulted cellars were built in the 19th century to store barrels of vinegar produced at the nearby Hills and Evans works.

Original article and pictures take http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/herefordandworcester/hi/people_and_places/newsid_9220000/9220670.stm site

среда, 28 февраля 2018 г.

Cool and Creative DIY Wall Lamps That Will Light Up Your Home

Hello my friends, today I have a very interesting post for you that I called ” Cool and Creative DIY Wall Lamps That Will Light Up Your Home”. Either it is the indoor area of your home or the outdoor space, the decor is incomplete without a few lamps or lights. So, we thought of bringing you such lamps today that won’t make you say oh! I don’t have enough space. Because you have to fix them on the wall as wall lamps. Cool, right?

There are so many different types of lighting and they are all unique. In this huge and complex collection of lamps, pendants, chandeliers and all sorts of fixtures, finding the one that bests suits your needs and preferences is an almost impossible task. But there are ways in which you can design them yourself. These so called DIY projects give you more freedom and allow you to choose the materials, design, color and all the other details. Let’s take a look at some ideas.

1. A Lamp Created from a Hollowed Log And a LED Strip and Has a Tiny Shelf Too

wall lamps
Source

2. Lamps Created from Painted Recycled Tin Cans and Wood

wall lamps
Source

3. A Rustic Farmhouse Light Created by Hanging a Bulb Over a Pulley

Source

4. A Wall Lamp Created from Recycled Pallet Wood

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5. Lamps Created from String Lights Covered Tree Branches Inside a Wood Frame

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6. Beauteous Wall Lamps Made from Mason Jars and Barn Wood

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7. Wall Lamps Created with The Combination of Weathered Wood and Lampshades

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8. A Wall Sconce Made from an Oak Cube Perfect for Minimalist Style Lovers

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9. A Wall Light Created from a Whiskey Bottle

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10. A Handcrafted Woven Wood Lamp; Now That’s Something Out of The Box!

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11. Vintage Industrial Water Pipe Wall Lamps

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12. Jack Daniels Honey Wall Mount Color

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13.DIY Industrial Sconces

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14. Contemporary Wall Light In Wood

Source

Thanks for visiting our site you maybe like to read:

Original article and pictures take http://theartinlife.com/index.php/2017/06/10/cool-creative-diy-wall-lamps-home/ site

WOODEN CONSTRUCTION TOYS

Woodworkers with a passion for making wooden construction toys will love these chunky model toys.

Designed and built to last, these wooden toys make the perfect "made with love" gift for children.

Wooden Construction Toys Plans
Cick to Enlarge

Make this delightful toy grader with this free plan, complete with step by step instructions, diagrams and photos.

There is just enough detail to stimulate the imagination of children and adults alike.

Tools

This construction toy can be made with just a few tools.

A cordless drill is a tool that I use most often and as a bonus, it also useful for driving screws for carpentry work.

Shop for cordless drill on eBay

You may also need the following items to complete the project:

  • Hacksaw to cut the dowel axles to length.
  • Wood file to round over all the edges.
  • Sanding block with 120 and 80 grit sandpaper.
  • A selection of drill bits.

A 12 inch disc sander or linisher with sanding disk attachment is very useful for trimming up end grain and squaring off small pieces of wood.

If you are going to make your own wheels for this wooden construction toy, a drill press is recommended. You will also need a 16mm spade bit, a 6mm drill bit and a circle cutter modified to cut wheels instead of holes.

Materials

This wooden construction toy can be made with bits of wood left over from other projects.

I made mine from a piece of left over pine 19mm thick by 140mm wide by 500mm long. The wheels were also cut out of 19mm pine by 140mm wide.

For the six wheels, I used a piece less than 200mm in length, and the extra length was useful in clamping the piece while using the circle cutter.

The blade of the grader was made with a piece of skirting board 200mm long.

For the axles, use 6mm dowel.

Step by Step Instructions

Download a print ready PDF copy of the construction toy plans.

  • Step 1. The first step is to read through the instructions and study the plans and photos.
  • Step 2. Using a soft pencil and a ruler, mark out the component parts as shown in the drawing.
  • Cut out the parts using an electric jigsaw, a backsaw or a scroll saw.
  • Parts A to D are trimmed back to their proper sizes. A twelve inch disc sander is useful for trimming small pieces.
  • Glue the pieces that make up parts E and F and put to one side to set.
  • Clamp parts B together and drill the holes for the axles. At this stage, the holes are drilled for a snug fit. Do this in order to make sure things stay lined up when the parts are glued and clamped together.
  • Dry clamp parts A and B together, keeping the two parts B aligned with the axle dowels. Mark the pieces so that it will be re-assembled in the correct order. It is shown in red in the photo only to highlight the idea, so don't actually mark it in red. Apply the glue, clamp it and put to one side.

    It is important that the axle dowels are left in place until the glue sets to minimize creep under clamping pressure. Once the glue has set, re-drill the holes to allow the axles to spin freely.

    The blade of the grader, part C, is made from a piece of skirting board cut to a width of 30mm. It may also be made from a piece of timber that is 9mm thick, just chamfer one edge to the profile shown in the drawing.

    Cut and trim part D to size, and drill the axle hole using a drill press or drill guide. Use the 6.5mm drill bit to allow the axle to spin freely.

    Drill the holes for the roof of the cab by placing it on the body as shown in the photo.

    The photo shows how to fix the dowels on place by measuring the height the dowels are set so that they sit slightly above the roof. This is an idea borrowed from the Craftsman furniture movement.

    Final Assembly

    Glue the roof and engine block in place. Once the glue has set, lightly sand the whole toy with 220 grit sandpaper, removing all the sharp corners.

    Attach the wheels with a small dab of glue.

    Painting and Finishing

    Leave it in it's natural state, or apply your favourite finish. I used yellow food colouring for a bright yellow finish. To make the wheels black, I mixed all the food colours together.

    For information on food safe finishes and dyes, visit U-Beaut.com.au includes links to international suppliers.

    More Wooden Construction Toys

    wooden construction toys
    Toy Steam Roller Mk1 & Mk2

    Construction toy plans easy build steam roller.

    Price: Free

    wooden construction toys
    Large Road Grader

    Large toy road grader, about 20% bigger than the original version of the road grader.

    Price: Free

    Construction Vehicle Toy Plans
    Dam Scraper
    Construction Vehicle Toy Plans
    Mobile Crane
    Construction Vehicle Toys
    Bulldozer
    Construction vehicle toy plans
    Steam Shovel

    More free wooden toy plans includes tipper trucks, airplanes, cars even a batmobile.

    Visit the woodworking projects gallery to view projects from people all around the world.

    Original article and pictures take https://www.wooden-toy-plans.com/wooden_construction_toys.html site

    понедельник, 19 февраля 2018 г.

    How to Build the Ultimate Outdoor Compost Bin

    Successful gardeners rely on compost to improve soil fertility and moisture management, nourish helpful microbes, and inoculate against destructive ones.

    This three-bin system is a compost factory that efficiently pumps out heaps of finished black gold in weeks, rather than the months you would typically wait during a more hands-off approach. Made from rot-resistant cedar, our ultimate compost bin features removable front planks and a clean look that allows for plenty of air movement.

    Best of all, you can build it in just a few hours. Here's how to make our favorite compost bin:

    Tools

    Wood

    • 7 pieces: 1 inch x 6 inches x 12 feet
    • 9 pieces: 1 inch x 6 inches x 10 feet
    • 2 pieces: 1 inch x 2 inches x 10 feet
    • 2 pieces: 2 inches x 6 inches x 10 feet
    • 2 pieces: 2 inches by 6 inches x 12 feet
    • 2 pieces: 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet

    Wood Cuts

    Removable planks: Cut four of the 1x6x12s into 3 foot 7½ inch pieces, 12 total.

    Uprights (for end and middle panels): Cut the 2x4x12s into 2 foot 10½ inch pieces, 8 total.

    Side slats: Cut the 1x6x10s into 4 foot 6 inch pieces, 18 total.

    Front and back supports: Cut the 2x6x12s into 2 foot 10½ inch pieces, 8 total.

    Bottom pieces: Cut the 2x6x10s into 4 foot 9 inch pieces, 4 total.

    Plank supports: Cut the 1x2x10s into 2 foot 10½ inch pieces, 6 total.

    Back slats: Use the three remaining uncut 1x6x12s.

    Making the Compost Bin End Panels

    1. On a flat surface, place two side slats on top of two uprights. To avoid splitting the wood, drill guide holes first. Attach.

    2. Attach a third side slat, spaced evenly, to make one side panel.

    3. Position the front and back supports as shown, placing the assembly on a hard surface (we used one of the planks).

    4. Attach the supports, screwing into the side slats and also into uprights.

    5. Flipping the panels upside down, attach bottom pieces as shown using the 2½ inch screws.

    6. Repeats steps 1 through 5 to build the other end panel.

    7. To make grooves for removable planks, lay panels flat. Allow one plank’s thickness (plus a little), and attach the plank supports to the side slots, leaving a plank in place as a guide.

    Making the Compost Bin Middle Panels

    Build these panels as you did the end panels, with a few exceptions.

    1. Repeat End Panel steps 1 and 2 above.

    2. Flip the panels and fasten three more side slats on the other side of both middle panels.

    3. The front and back supports must be centered perpendicular to the uprights.

    4. Attach the bottom pieces, being careful to screw into the side slats. Use the 2½ inch screws.

    5. As with the side panels, create grooves for planks by attaching plank supports to the uprights.

    6. Do this on both faces of the two middle panels, as shown.

    Putting the Compost Bin Together

    1. Balance the panels on their front supports. Attach the three 12 foot back slats to both end panel back supports.

    2. Measure 49 inches from each end to mark where the middle panels will go. Attach the middle panels with screws, centering marks on back supports.

    3. Place a bin with bottom pieces on soil and slide four removable planks into each bin to evenly space front supports.

    4. Remove the planks and pound in metal fence posts.

    5. Attach the posts.

    6. Staple wire netting to the insides of each bin.

    7. Replace the removable planks and you’re done!

    How to Work the Compost Bin System

    Fill the first compost bin with compostables like fruit and veggie scraps, wood shavings, dry leaves, or old newspapers. When it's full, turn the contents into the second compost bin every few days (the more often you turn it, the faster the decomposition will occur).

    Begin filling the third compost bin with fresh materials. When the third bin is full, the second bin is "finished," and the first bin is empty, allowing you to start the process over.

    Original article and pictures take https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/a20706669/how-to-build-compost-bin/ site

    суббота, 17 февраля 2018 г.

    Rabbit House Plans

    This step by step diy project is about outdoor rabbit house plans. I have designed this cheap rabbit hutch out of wood so you can keep your favorite furry pets in a clean and safe environment. The top roof is actually a lid so you have easy access to the house and clean it regularly. In addition, the bottom run is ideal for the rabbits as they can move and stay healthy. I have other rabbit hutch designs you can see HERE.

    Generally speaking, there are many designs and sizes you can choose from when building a rabbit hutch, so we strongly advise you to check all the options before starting the actual construction. Always choose professional plans and invest in the best quality lumber you can afford (pressure treated lumber, cedar, pine). Use a quality saw to adjust the size of the components at the right dimensions.

    Projects made from these plans

    Rabbit House Plans

    building-a-bunny-house
    Building-a-bunny-house

    Building a rabbit house

    building-the-side-walls
    Building-the-side-walls

    The first step of the project is to build the sides for the rabbit hutch. Cut the components from 2×2 lumber, using the instructions from the diagrams. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the horizontal components and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the vertical supports. Insert 2 1/2″ pocket screws and add glue to the joints.

    building-the-front-wall
    Building-the-front-wall

    Build the front wall for the rabbit hutch from 2×4 lumber and 2×2 lumber. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the 2×2 components and lock everything together tightly with 2 1/2″ screws. Add glue to the joints and make sure the corners are right-angled.

    building-the-back-wall
    Building-the-back-wall

    Build the back wall for the rabbit hutch in the same manner described above. Add glue to the joints, making sure the corners are square.

    assembling-the-rabbit-hutch-frame
    Assembling-the-rabbit-hutch-frame

    The next step of the outdoor bunny hutch project is to assemble the frame. Align the edges flush and then make sure the corners are square. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws, every 8″.

    floor-frame
    Floor-frame

    Assemble the floor for the bunny house, as well. Cut the 2×2 components at the right dimensions and then assemble the floor frame with 2 1/2″ screws. You can drill pilot holes and insert the screws, or you can drill pocket holes and insert the screws.

    fitting-the-floor
    Fitting-the-floor

    Fit the floor frame to the rabbit hutch frame and then secure it into place with 2 1/2″ screws, after drilling pilot holes. Make sure you align the edges flush and leave no gaps between the components. Now it a great time to staple the hardware cloth to the floor, making sure you cut out the area where the ladder will be.

    building-the-partition
    Building-the-partition

    Build the partition for the rabbit hutch from 3/4″ plywood. Mark the cut lines for the opening and then cut out the excess with a jigsaw. Smooth the edges with sandpaper and drill pocket holes along the sides of the panel.

    fitting-the-partition
    Fitting-the-partition

    Fit the panel to the rabbit house and align it properly. Insert 1 1/4″ screws to secure the partition into place.

    attaching-the-back-wall
    Attaching-the-back-wall

    Attach 1/2″ plywood siding to the back of the rabbit hutch, using 6d nails.

    side-walls
    Side-walls

    Attach siding panels to the side of the rabbit hutch, as well.

    building-the-ladder
    Building-the-ladder

    Build the ladder for the rabbit hutch from 2×2 lumber. Cut the components at the angles and dimensions shown in the diagram. Drill pilot holes through the sides and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the steps. Add glue to the joints and leave no gaps between the components.

    fitting-the-ladder
    Fitting-the-ladder

    Fit the ladder to the rabbit house, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws so you can lock them into place tightly.

    fitting-the-top-lid
    Fitting-the-top-lid

    Build the lid for the rabbit house from 2×4 lumber. After cutting the components at the right dimensions, you need to drill pocket holes at both ends of the 41″ long components. Insert 2 1/2″ screws into the perpendicular components. Add glue to the joints and make sure the corners are square. Use hinges to secure the lid to the bunny house.

    fitting-the-roofing
    Fitting-the-roofing

    Attach corrugated sheets to the lid and secure them into place with screws. I have designed the house with the top lid, so you can have easy access to the inside of the hutch and clean it.

    fitting-the-hardware-cloth
    Fitting-the-hardware-cloth

    Attach the hardware cloth to the bottom and to the front of the hutch using staples. Make sure you leave the door openings aside.

    building-the-doors
    Building-the-doors

    Build the door frames from 2×2 lumber. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the vertical components and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the perpendicular components. Add waterproof glue to the joints for a proper bond. Attach hardware cloth to the bottom door and 1/2″ siding to the top door.

    fitting-the-doors
    Fitting-the-doors

    Fit the doors into the opening and then secure them into place with hinges. In addition, fit small latches so you can lock the doors and keep the bunny safe from the predators.

    bunny-house-plans
    Bunny-house-plans

    Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Make sure there are no sharp edges exposed and fill the holes with wood putty. Smooth the surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper and remove the dust with a cloth. Apply a few coats of paint or stain to enhance the look of the components for a neat result.

    wooden-rabbit-hutch-plans
    Wooden-rabbit-hutch-plans

    The rabbit hutch has a nice appearance from all angles. Make sure the corrugated sheets overhang the house for about 1″ on all sides, so it drains the water properly.

    cheap-rabbit-hutch-plans
    Cheap-rabbit-hutch-plans

    This bunny house it is both easy and cheap to build. All the materials are available to all DIY stores and you only need common household tools to get the job done in a professional manner.

    rabbit-house-plans
    Rabbit-house-plans

    This bunny house will allow you keep your furry pets in a clean and safe environment. In addition, the pets will have plenty of space to move in the run and stay healthy.

    This woodworking project was about outdoor rabbit house plans. If you want to see more outdoor plans, I recommend you to check out the rest of my step by step projects. SHARE my projects and follow us on the social networks to help me keep adding free woodworking plans.

    Original article and pictures take http://myoutdoorplans.com/animals/rabbit-house-plans/ site